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Hello veteran travelers to costa Rica,

I find myself with a two-week extension of my vacation but will be traveling with a female companion (not novia per se). I'm looking for enjoyable ways to fill the two weeks.

Aside from the volcanos (we're planning an overnight to Arunel/Tabacan) and the La Paz Waterfalls (which we did last year), we don't have much interest in eco-tourism or "adventure" touring.

How would you fill ten days to two weeks in Costa Rica, if the above were true for you? No mongering, little nature-appreciation, etc.

Your wise advice is sought. Thanks!

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Pura Vulva! Wandering through the dark, I am El Ciego.

Monteverde is nice and worth a visit.

The Southern Caribean as in Cauhita , Puerto Viejo and Manzinillo is like paridise lost and one of my favorite beaches and places but hotter than hell now.

Manuel Antonio is really nice.

I have heard good things about Montezuma but yet to Visit.

I have also heard good things on Osa Penninsula Golfito but yet to visit
RBC100

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In Search of Fine Kittens,
Please... Bring back the Muff

I'd recommend the Tortuga Island cruise/tour. I've taken it twice and enjoyed it both times. You take a bus to Puntarenas, then a large catamaran to the island. A couple of different companies offer the tour, but be sure to take the one offered by Calypso Tours.

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"In a nation ruled by swine, all pigs are upwardly mobile, and the rest of us are phucked until we can put our acts together; not necessarily to win, but mainly to keep from losing completely"...Hunter S. Thompson (RIP)

IMHO, it partially depends on the season. I don't mind CR during the wet season, but I do prefer the cooler mountains at that time of year as the coast can get oppressively humid. Since you're travelling in September, you might want to keep that in mind.

You also said you're not into the eco-tourist adventure travel stuff. I'm not sure that really leaves much. Like RBC, I really like Monteverde and am actually thinking of going there next month as well. However I see that as primarily an ecotourist destination.

I actually thought of inviting you along but I'm not sure how much you'd enjoy stumbling along the trails. OTOH, some of the trails are relatively smooth (akin to a bad sidewalk in SJ) and usually the best way to spot wildlife or listen to bird and animal sounds is to just plant yourself somewhere quietly. I don't know about you, but I could actually picture a blind friend of mine going on one of the canopy tours (going tandem with the guide to brake of course). Many of the people that go on those things shut their eyes anyway and while you won't enjoy the views, I suspect you will get a sense of the space around you. Alternatively, the trails and walkways on the Skywalk are fairly smooth and give you a chance to experience the canopy more sedately and less dangerously. However, all in all, MV may be too much ecotourism and adventure for your tastes.

Probably more to your tastes would be beach destinations. RBC mentioned Manuel Antonio, which is a truly beautiful place. You're already planning to go to Dominical (by way of San Isidro), which is the next major town going down the coast. My understanding is that it is much more "rustic" and undeveloped than MA. However, you may want to return to SJ by way of MA for a little variety of beach experience. And you could also probably overnight in Jaco and arrange to hook up with GT's Tortuga day cruise, saving having to drive back and forth from SJ to get there.

However, since you have 2 whole weeks to kill, MV, MA or day cruises aren't going to really cut it by themselves. If I had that much time to play with I'd really take advantage of it and go to the more remote parts of CR. Guanacaste offers you beautiful beaches and interesting parks at Santa Rosa and Rincon de la Vieja, not to mention the possibility of extending your trip into Nicaragua. RBC mentioned Montezuma on the Nicoya Peninsula and Cahuita in the southern caribbean coast going towards Panama as 2 beautiful and more remote beach destinations. You don't get much more remote in CR than to go Golfito and the Osa Peninsula, which RBC also mentioned and that would make a extremely natural companion to your San Isidro-Dominical route. I'll throw out one additional remote destination just to be complete and that would be the Tortuguero area in the NE part of the country near the caribbean border with Nicaragua. Personally I think of both Tortugeuro and Golfito as being primarily sportfishing destinations (good surfing near Golfito too and turtle-nesting ecotourism near Tortuguero). My bottom line recommendation would be to either extend your current plans to go to Golfito or make a seperate trip to Guanacaste and Nicaragua.


Prolijo
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"As if one could kill time without damaging eternity"

RBC, Prolijo, GT...

Thanks for the suggestions.

I didn't mean to say that we have absolutely no interest in ecotourism, what kind of Philistines would we be if we ignored the natural beauty of C.R.? While I cannot see the brilliant plumage, I still enjoy the song, and aside from concerns about running into the odd culebra or bullet ant, I'm pretty cool with nature walks.

We spent three days in Manuel Antonio last year, and I thought it was very sad. the amount of gringo-driven development is killing the entire area; the park now 33 years old is in brutalized condition, although very accessible. Playa Escondido and other beaches within the park are okay, but I wouldn't let my worst enemy swim off the public beach at the park entrance.

The constant sound of earth movers, Skil saws and jackhammers shatters the pristine ambient sound of nature. Loud music from street dances in Quepos, four miles distant shatter the night. Spoiled, rich gringo bitch-children pump da beats through bass cannons and race their vehicles up and down the beach road at all hours. We've phucked up another Paradise.

And I can't imagine the idiocy and crowding that surely accompany high season; we were there last September, and thought the rude gringo behavior was almost insufferable then. Can't imagine the scene at full occupancy.

That being said, for the sake of its luxury level, we will probably incorporate a visit to M.A./Quepos as part of the Pacific coast tour.

We're also planning to do a couple nights in Golfito, including the ferry trip to Pto. Jiminez; the remoteness and unspoiled beaches appeal to us, although we understand that it's going to be hotter than Hell's hinges.

While zip lines might not be prudent, I am a fairly experienced rider, and a horseback tour will probably be on the menu.

Side note: It's humorous and embarrasing at the same time to interact with nervous tour operators, who fear that my blindness will put me in danger, or cause problems for them. Usually a gentle, diplomatic talk is all it takes to reassure them; at other times, I'm forced to simply walk away. As I haven't done too many organized tours in C.R., I haven't yet hgad this problem, but it has certainly been true in other places I've traveled. We'll see how Hoss Caratera feels about me mounting one of his riding horses...

Two weeks is actually not that much time. One could whirlwind through the entire country during that time frame, but would not get much of a chance to stop and smell the guaria morada. Since the gringa lady wants tropical sun, hamocks and little drinks with umbrellas, we'll probably tailor much of the visit to that kind of activity. I'm still however, open to more suggestions. Thanks again, guys.

Paul

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Pura Vulva! Wandering through the dark, I am El Ciego.

Hi El Ciego,

"What do I do with two extra weeks in CR?" is one problem I would not mind having! Well...here is my 2 cents worth: If I were in your shoes, I would take one of those weeks, and find a nice, quiet spot to chill.

I will be in CR from August 29 through September 12 for two full weeks. Since August of last year, I have been to CR four times, but never stayed longer than a week. Every trip was action packed with "things to do" like day tours to Arenal, Tortuga Island, etc. On my last trip in May, I discovered the southern Caribbean Coast. I only spent a day there, but I loved it. The area around Puerto Viejo is very laid-back, and as RBC100 appropriately described it, "Paradise Lost."

Even though it may be hotter than Hades this time of the year, I am spending a week there to chill. My itinerary includes doing as little as possible other than enjoying the beach, a little exploring and maybe some fishing. Transportation to Puerto Viejo/Manzanilla from San Jose is relatively inexpensive ($50 Roundtrip with Interbus...or a few thousand Colonnes using the public bus). Nice, inexpensive (but rustic) lodging can be found for $25- $30 per day, and cabanas with efficiencies are available for around $40. My food bill will be significantly lower than if I remained home here in New Jersey. Like the local culture, the nightlife is very laid-back and centers around comfortable outdoor bars and restaurants in Puerto Viejo. There is the opportunity to meet interesting tourists from all over the world. Some of the local establishments are owned/operated by Europeans...one definitely senses subtle European influence here. However...mongering opportunities appear to be minimal.

For at least part of my stay, I will be accompanied by one of my favorite ticas, who enjoyed Puerto Viejo as much as I did last May. She is an art student who loves collecting all sorts of detritus (driftwood, shells, etc.) from the beaches for her artwork. We will be using Kayas Place (operated by a nice, young American couple) as home base from September 1 through September 8. (Yes, I will be missing the CRT Anniversary Party.) Kayas Place is situated 30 yards from Playa Negra (Black Beach) and less than a quarter mile North (or is it West?) of Puerto Viejo.

Having said all of the above, I would still love to explore the intriguing, uncharted region of the southwest Pacific...but maybe on another trip!

Whatever you choose to do, El Ciego, I hope you enjoy yourself!

Regards,

Blue Devil

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Blue Devil

Pura Vida...enjoying life to the fullest...

I spent a few days at Manuel Antonio last year. I reserved Hotel La Mariposa. Enjoyed the hotel. Great View! Monkeys playing in the trees outside the rooms. Good swimming pools. Good staff. There was a hotel provided shuttle bus to and from the Park. Very Romantic!

El Ciego,

I might offer San Vito as an out of the way spot. It is about 5 1/2 to 6hrs South of San Jose towards Panama on the only major road. You must drive over the "Mountain of Death" to get there. Lots of cloud driving. Hence the length of drive versus the milage.

San Vito isn't much of a town. The gardens are impressive. You can stay overnight at the gardens. Why are they there? I'll not spoil your fun by telling you the history of either place.

From San Vito, you can follow the road west down to the coast, the Oso Peninsula and terverse back up the coast to Dominical, Quepos and Jaco before your return to San Jose. If you wish, when you meet the main coastal highway, turn south to the Panama boarder, stop on the CR side and just walk over to the Duty Free shops on the Panama side. Oh, make sure your passports and rental car papers are in order. You will be stopped on the coast road a couple of times. No problems... Just looking for smugglers, illegals coming up from Panama.

If you're not in a hurry this would be a great "circle" route to explore. 4X4 auto isn't necessary. I had one but, a 4 door car would make it just fine. All of that route is paved, with the exception of about 20 miles south of Quepos that was still rock and dirt when I was there last summer.

Cheers,

Hotluck

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Don't tell my Mom I'm a Pilot. She thinks I'm a Piano Player in a Brothel.