Puerto Viejo is a laid-back, almost bohemian, resort destination. The little village attracts a younger back-packing/surfer crowd from all over the world as opposed to the staid, golf-club-toting tourists found in many of the west coast resort areas. PV and locations south (Cocles, Punta Uva & Manzanillo) are home to a number of small B&B's, hotels and restaurants. With few exceptions, accommodations are rustic and without air-conditioning. Puerto Viejo is almost equidistant from Manzanillo and Punta Caihuita (about 14 - 15 kms in either direction). I stay in a small hotel 200 m north of town called Kayas Place (
www.kayasplace.com ). The rooms are rustic, but functional, ranging in price from $19 to $60 during the high season. A private cabin that accommodates 5 is available for $85. The rooms are rustic, no air, phone or TV...safes were installed about 3 weeks ago. The "Big Bark" hotel bar works on the honor system...each guest maintains a personal tab for beer, soda and other drinks and pays up when checking out. The beach is only 30 meters from the bar. Kayas Place is owned and operated by a colorful, young gringo by the name of "JT." Hotel guests are an interesting mix of the young and old from all over the world.
Like the town, the nightlife in PV is different, but fun. I am a big fan of Puerto Viejo, and find it a refreshing break from San Jose. "Troko-weed" is readily available and enjoyed by many who live and visit PV. P4P is virtually non-existent here, so it is advisable to bring your own company. Limon, 60 km north, is a venue for mongering, but nowhere near the smorgasbord of delights like in San Jose. There are a number of young turistas hanging out at the waterfront bars who may be looking for romance and excitement during their stay in PV, but don't count on scoring like at the Del Rey. At night, there are several bars that come to life along the beach...Johnny's Place, Bar Maritza, Sunset Bar and Stamford's. Johnny's Place is very easy to spot...just look for the huge bonfire on the northside of PV.
The Kekoldi Indian Reservation is in nearby Bribri. There are two waterfalls hidden in the jungle that offer an interesting alternative to the beaches. Manzanillo is the gateway to the vast Manzanillo-Gandoca jungle preserve that extends all the way to Panama. The preserve is only accessible by boat of foot. Sixaola, on the border of Panama is about 48 km away heading south on Hwy 36. Bus service from Sixaola is available from PV. Here, you can cross a rickety 100-year old bridge over Rio Sixaola into Panama. Once in Guabito, Panama, you will find several duty-free stores that carry an assortment of goods ranging from Gas ranges to electronics. A little grocery store at the foot of the bridge is a good place to buy booze. A few little restaurants and bars complete the commercial activity in Guabito...there is not much else to see. In order to qualify for the $500 duty-free exemption, you must get your passport stamped upon entering and leaving Costa Rica and Panama...a total of four stamps. Last week, I made two trips into the Guabito where I completed most of my Christmas shopping. A $6 cab fare will get you to Changuinola 18 km away. Changuinola has many stores and even a mini-mall. There is also a small airport with regular flights to Panama City. Cabs are available for transport to Bocas del Toro where you board a water taxi to the island.
The trip to PV takes about four hours. I always drive, but there are other transportation options including the Caribenos/Tilepe bus service from San Jose via Limon, Interbus (which costs about $29 one way) and a daily flight on Nature Air from Pavas Airport to the Limon airstrip (
www.natureair.com )...a $10 shuttle is available to PV from the airport. Hwys 32 and 36 are in much better shape than 3 years ago, but you will need to keep your eyes peeled for potholes and wash-outs if you are driving. I was pleased to see MOPT out in force filling potholes along Hwy 36 last Thursday.
I am a fan of Puerto Viejo and the Caribbean Coast, but I am also the first to admit that it is not for everyone. I will be returning to PV, with 5 lovely ticas, at the end of the month to ring in the New Year.
Peace,