Honkytonk wrote:
You may want to sign up for one of the day trips to Tabacon and take a return bus on another day. It gets you into the spas and the roundtrip bus ride for less.
As it happens this approach has been discussed rather thoroughly (aka "Prolijo style") just recently. check out this thread:
http://www.costaricaticas.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22589
Basically, if you plan to save some money by taking the public bus to get there and/or are planning to visit the more reasonably priced hot springs that are also in that area, then the above approach may not be best for you. However, if I'm understanding HonkyTonk correctly that those tours will let you return with them on a different day for the same price as the one day tour AND you were planning to take the pricier tourist shuttles to get there anyway, then that would definitely be something to look into. To be honest what HT seems to be suggesting is a new wrinkle on me. I was aware that one didn't have to return to SJ with their tour group but I didn't know one could split the transportation that way and still get the return trip covered (HT, have you tried that yourself and are sure about that?)
Another tip, when reading recommendations on hotels in this area (or offering your own), it should be noted exactly WHERE the hotel was located and WHEN that person was there.
A lot of, in fact most, hotels say VOLCANO View but that is not the same thing as LAVA View and where you can really get the lava view changes fairly regularly. For a long time the volcano had flowed on the north to northeast half of the Volcano. That also happens to be, not uncoincidentally, where most of the hotels had sprung up. It also didn't hurt that that was also the side that the road from Fortuna to the lake happened to be on. Then in March of 2005 the lava flow switched to the south to southwest side. It continued that way for about year before switching back to the north side. And then about a year ago it switched again to the south to southwest side. (btw, you can see for yourself where the flow is currently running at
http://www.arenal.net/arenal-costa-rica-map.htm).
Even if those reviewers were there when the lava was flowing in the same direction it is today, they still may have had a different viewing opportunity than you'll have. I've read that the top of Arenal is obscured by clouds and smoke at least 300 days per year. Naturally, the best shot for a clear view comes during the dry season when anybody reporting those great views was most likely there. Now we're heading into the rainy season. It may still be pretty clear in the mornings for those views of the volcano but by late afternoon and evening the top of the volcano is often clouded up (or covered with smoke) and there is a good chance you won't be able to get a clear view of the glowing lava from your hotel at night when it should be most visible (you can see the steam from the lava but not the glow during daylight hours).
So, you can see why I said WHEN a person was there can make a huge difference in the viewing experience he had and why it might not translate into the same viewing opportunity for you over the next few months. Unfortunately, as of now the flow continues to the south and there simply aren't that many hotels on that side of the volcano.
What is more, even if there were, it might not be the best side of the volcano to be on for someone without a car since that would place him far away from the town of Fortuna, the public bus stop and most restaurants and other attractions. So you should also ask any reviewer how they got around before projecting their experience to yourself. Of course, there are some ways to mitigate those potential transportation problems. For example, if you're taking the Interbus or Grayline shuttle they'll drop you off or pick you up right at your hotel, whereever you stay in the area. Also, you may not mind having dinner at your hotel every night rather than going out, particularly if it comes with a nice view of the glowing lava flow. And finally, during the day, if you plan to go on many organized tours, most include the price of hotel pick up in their rates. However, even there you have to be careful some tours tack what can be a pretty hefty surcharge for picking up at some hotels. For example, the Sarapiqui whitewater rafting trip offered on
www.arenal.net charges $40 extra for picking up at the Arenal Observatory Lodge which is the place that is actually closest to the lava.
Based on what I wrote above, but without knowing your budget, mode of getting to Fortuna or planned activities, I think your best plan would be probably be to look for someplace either in town or close to it or along the road between Fortuna and Tabacon. Cab fare to get to town would add a little to your expenses but at least there is a free shuttle that you can use to get to Tabacon (and if you don't mind being sleazy probably into town as well). If you absolutely must have the possibility of a lava view from your hotel, then the Arenal Lodge would be your best option if you want something moderately priced or nearby Lost Iguana if you want something more luxurious (and expensive). The 20-25 minute cab ride to/from Fortuna won't be super cheap (not that would matter to you if you could afford Lost Iguana) but at least they'd be better than other places even further along the roads. Plus there is a nice canopy activity that you can go on that is located right at Lost Iguana. I have no idea where Arenal Madaras is located or what type of view it really has, but the Volcano Lodge is well situated about halfway between Fortuna and Tabacon with a Canyoning tour and a Canopy tour less than 2 miles away on one side and Eco Termales less than 2 miles away on the other (heading back towards town). At $84/nt (incl tax), I'd call it a midpriced option. If you want to economize there are still less expensive places to stay.
Generally, I usually advise people to focus on all the other things the area has to offer (hotsprings, waterfall, canopy activities, etc) and regard any success at seeing the lava as a bonus. Provide better info as to exactly what you hope to get out of your trip and what you hope to do (not to mention how much you expect to spend) and we can probably provide better tailored advice.