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Over the Hill of Death, past the watchful Jesus overlooking San Isidro del General and 40 minutes down to the sea, you find Dominical, population 1500.
Surfers flock here, although you've got to be nuts to brave the numerous rocks, riptides and undercurrents that claim lives every year.
If you're going to try to visit Dominical from Manuel Antonio/Quepos to the north, you'd better have both a high-clearance 4 X 4 and a good chiropractor. The road between M.A. and Dominical should be used to test shock absorbers. However, the road from San Jose via San isidro is fairly easy, once one gets over the Hill of Death.
Hill of Death!? At over three kilometers above sea level at its apex, the road between San Jose and San Isidro del General is foggy, rainy, narrow and lacks guard rails. And as it is the only highway between San Jose and S. Isidro d. General, it's full with cars, buses, and the numerous semi-trailer trucks.
Okay, so what will I find in Dominical? Gringos, and lots of 'em, driving the real estate prices through the roof in typical, dumb-ass gringo fashion. You'll find numerous blonde, fat, gringa real estate agents carrying PDA's and Coldwell Banker or Century 21 business cards. You'll find surfers, bad roads, an unpaved road going through a little town. There are markets, an Internet cafe, farmacia, doctor's office, dentist and several fun little bars and restaurants. Try "Su Raza" for lunch, San Clemente for breakfast, Tortilla Flats on the beach for Sunday NFL and hoagies, or Roca Verde for their Saturday Night disco, which draws gringos and ticos from all over the area.
Are there hookers in Dominical? Yes, but PM me for names. Also, they're not the prettiest in the world; one girl I encountered had teeth which looked like a collection of broken, stained Popsicle sticks. Nice little spinner body though...
Okay, okay...with all that I've just written, why would anyone go to Dominical?
Scenery, for one thing. The ocean vistas are the most beautiful in Costa Rica. Also, Dominical is a logical stopover if one is planning to visit the Oso Peninsula, golfito and its duty-free shopping zone, Puerto Jimenez or Drake's Bay.
Dominical has a couple of very nice, private places to bring your novia. Cabinas Coconut Grove about 2 kilometers from the center of Dominical features four spotlessly-clean cabinas, beach access, productive fruit trees and two of the nicest gringos ever to run a resort, Richard and Diane. Bring your chica there during rainy season for nearly total privacy; cabina #2 features a queen bed, A/C and kitchenette.
The gringos who live in Dominical are very friendly and helpful; personally I think they're grateful for new blood in town, someone new to talk with.
Particularly during off-season, Dominical is a wonderful place to recharge your batteries and center your thoughts a bit. It feels very old Costa Rica, despite the number of gringos. Try it, and you'll agree that this sleepy little beach town is a great place to get back to yourself, to spend a long weekend with a novia, to surf or simply to escape.
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Pura Vulva! Wandering through the dark, I am El Ciego.
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