www.CostaRicaTicas.com

I was wondering what's up with the Caribbean/Atlantic/Gulf side of Costa Rica? I have heard a few mentions of a laid-back atmosphere and rasta-type culture. I was just curious what the name of some of those areas are and if you could provide a little info on any activities or just the lifestyle and atmosphere of what's on the other side ((I've only been to SJO and Jaco, but i will be with 2 other mellow, nature-loving people during my trip in a few days). Thank you!


"The farther one travels, the less one really knows"

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is in the southeast part of the country. A majority of the inhabitants of that areas are either of Jamaican descent or native Kekoldi. PV attracts more of a bohemian, surfer international crowd than they typically "button-down" tourist types of the west coast... especially in Guanacaste. The Caribbean north of Limon is largely uninhabited, and to get to fishing meccas like Barro del Colorado in the northeast, you need either a plane or boat.

I used to love Puerto Viejo (southeast coast, almost to Panama) and the laid back atmosphere. Like BlueDevil said, it is definitely a more rasta kind of lifestyle. However, the crime in that area has really been a big problem the last year or two with hotel invasions, robberies, murders and a lot of other stuff that has forced me to no longer recommend that area for travel. Biggest problems two years ago were the lack of hotels with air conditioning...

It is really too bad because Puerto Viejo has some of the best beaches in Costa Rica, namely Punta Uva and Playa Grande where the road comes to an end. There were also some neat places to eat and a decent nightlife. The place didn't have much P4P for guys but was known to be an area where women could go to 'rent a rasta'.

One of the best 'tours' in the country, in my opinion, was with the Bribri Indian Tribe reservation (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bribri_people). You traveled to just west of the town of Bribri on a dirt road to a trading outpost on the river that is the Panama/Costa Rica border. The Indians would then pick you up in a canoe for the trip up the river to their reservation. You could then spend as many nights as you liked with them, learning about their culture, how they live, hunt and survive in a jungle wilderness. Was quite fascinating...

The Limon area (central east coast) is also a high-crime area. Costa Rica has a hard time finding enough police, doctors and nurses to staff it because no one wants to live/work there. There isn't any really good beaches, sights or really anything else to attract you to that area.

The northeast coast is basically a swamp. The only town is Tortuguero and the only way to get to it is to take a boat from Cariari or fly in from San Jose. It is a beautiful area, low crime and some fantastic wildlife including nesting turtles. Have had many friends travel there and all loved it but due to the remoteness, it is expensive to get to and stay there.

If you want to see a place in Costa Rica with a 'counter-culture' feel but is a bit more safe, I'd recommend Montezuma on the Nicoya Peninsula.

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The only thing that matters is happiness in all it forms...

Wow...thank you very much for all the info! We're discussing it all now

I visit Tortuguero and Barra Colorado regularly when in Costa Rica. The transport I use is with Mwamba Lodge in Tortuguero, their bus will pick you up at La Amistad or any hotel at approx. 6 AM. This includes breakfast at Rio Dante along the way, and the approx 1 ½ hour river/canal boat trip at the eastern (Cano Blanco river port) end of the trip. This is $50 each direction, and you don’t have to actually stay at Mwamba Lodge, although I have several times and the lodge, tours, food, staff are all excellent. Also includes lunch upon arrival at Mwamba, as well as a chance to cool off in their swimming pool. You can walk from here to Tortuguero village along the beach in approx 20 minutes. Be ready for heat, as the eastern side is hot and humid.
To continue on to Barra Colorado, you can hire local boat transport through the pencil canal or via the ocean, or contact Dan at the Rio Colorado Lodge for boat transport. The Rio Colorado is also an excellent fishing lodge and has great food, guides, staff and fishing. Their website is easy to find and covers all costs etc. You can also fly to Tortuguero via Nature Air(one flight per day), or often Dan has charter planes coming into Barra Colorado with reasonable prices to get there from Pavas airport. I have flown in with the eggs and bread packed in a little high wing Grunman with my fishing gear, as well as going in on a twin engine Cesna with only Sandra as my cargo!
The possibilities for seeing wildlife(crocs, birds, snakes, turtles, monkeys, fish, caiman, river otters, etc) are easy and any of the boat trips in and out are going to pass numerous photo opportunities.
The tourists are mostly European and there is not a lot do other than fishing, and taking the boat tours into the park for wildlife viewing, but this is a very relaxing place and away from the noise and congestion of the city…….no cars, trucks, and few motorcycles as there are no roads…virtually everything moves by boat here. I have been over there at various times including Christmas, in February, April, September and October with the best weather and fishing in September(least rain, smooth ocean, and lots of tarpon).
I plan to write a multi-year trip report(Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Colombia, Peru and the Tica bus route from Mexico to Panama) after my next trip and include details of my many fishing trips(tarpon, snook, and pink snapper) to Guanacaste, Corcovado, Granada, Cartagena, and other locations than many mongers never reach. I haven’t been to Jaco since I spent a month there in 1978, as I enjoy the less traveled locations. Don’t usually post much, but I ordered some flame proof underwear and a couple of new fire extinguishers in preparation for this above mentioned report.

It's good to hear from people who have actually traveled outside the gulch.

+ 1

I agree. Nice change of pace! The gulch is nothing but a gnat on a frog's ass. I've been saying it for a long time - to get the hell out of the city and see the "real" Costa Rica!

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You ALWAYS have an option ....... "NEXT" !!!

Zabu, it would be good to hear of your CR experiences.

Mentioned in Zabu's excellent TR are: http://www.mawamba.com/
and http://riocoloradolodge.com/

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"A man accustomed to hear only the echo of his own sentiments, soon bars all the common avenues of delight, and has no part in the general gratification of mankind"--Dr. Johnson
"Amen, brother"-ED

I had one of the best times in my life there. should have taken a chic. Try Banana Azul Hotel. Rated #1 in the area. Pot freely smoked and sold in the local bars. Lots of Rasta lifestyle. Cheap beer. Lots of nature. I plan to visit again soon.

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I am NOT a Cien Boy!!

Just don't ask about chica action when you visit a remote area

Agreed and here's the TA mention: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review ... Limon.html
The 1/2 owner is Colin (posting here and elsewhere as Colinsito) and is very knowledgeable and honest about the whole area. Here's their Website directly: http://www.bananaazul.com
A site about that area--good GP info: http://www.puertoviejosatellite.com/about.php

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"A man accustomed to hear only the echo of his own sentiments, soon bars all the common avenues of delight, and has no part in the general gratification of mankind"--Dr. Johnson
"Amen, brother"-ED

If you have to go to that part of the country, I'd agree Banana Azul is probably the best hotel in the area. Not a lot of A/C rooms but very nice and excellent service.

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The only thing that matters is happiness in all it forms...