Last month I took a pre-planned trip from the Cocal to the Baldi resort in Arenal via rental car. The plan was to leave early enough to avoid any nighttime driving, period. Well, stuff happens, and especially when it comes to trips with chicas. By the time I left the Cocal with my favorita (fifth trip to Costa Rica, fifth time with her), it was somewhere north of 2:00 PM. Then we had to go grocery shopping. Then I had to wait for her to pack up for the 2-night trip. Then we got our rental car, a Toyota Corolla from Alamo (the car and the agency were five stars).
We finally left Jaco after 4:00 PM. It was Sunday, May 3rd, the last day of the 3-day Labor Day weekend (May 1st is Labor Day all over the world, save for the USA), when everyone was travelling home from their holidays. We hit some bad traffic. The good part was we were allowed to drive on the "wrong" side of the divided freeway (very cool - I took an iPhone video of my scofflaw wrong-way excursion!), which was opened to reverse traffic by public announcements on radio and TV (I saw only one sign entering a toll booth the entire way). Unfortunately, nightfall came all-too-quickly, and I was driving in pitch-black darkness on narrow, winding mountain roads, with a concrete V-ditch where one would welcome the trivial margin-of-safety of a small shoulder, and large trucks coming the other way every once in a while. The worst thing was that every now and then a pedestrian would materialize out of nowhere on the edge of the V-ditch! This terrified me to no end. To my plaints, my companion blithely commented "Where do you expect them to walk?" ... Her Costa Rican stoic-fatalism at that moment making me feel more gringo then ever in my entire life.
Next thing, we stopped for an accident. I walked a third of a mile from my car, now parked in the traffic lane, and asked the authorities how long the road would be closed. "At least half an hour" was the reply, which I acknowledged as "oh, half an hour?" to which I was admonished "AT LEAST half an hour!". After consulting with some fellow night road warriors, we decided to bail and take a detour. The detour was via San Ramon, a particularly treacherous nighttime route. We got in to the Baldi resort at around 9:30 PM, got checked in expeditiously by the front desk (top notch!) and went directly to some hot spring pools open 24 hours. PURA VIDA!
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