This is a recount of my experience in Puerto Viejo (PV) and my 4 day 3 night stay at Kaya's Hotel in PV.
Many visitors to CR skip going to the caribbean coast. Still, I would say PV is worth at least one quick 2-3 day visit for 3 reasons:
1) a break from San Jose
2) you get to speak english again
3) PV's laid back and relaxed environment
My trip began on 12/30 so I was there over the new year's holiday. I took an interbus (private bus) ride from my hotel in San Jose directly to Kaya's in PV. The views were spectacular, mountains, cloud forests, hillsides, beaches small towns, etc. On the Interbus there are usually no more than 8 other passengers and it only cost me $29 one way. The public bus is less expensive (about $4) but also more arduous and cramped. I chose to stick with private because I didn't want to be uncomfortable for the entire 4 hour ride.
You can also look into catching a flight into Limon if you are the risk taking type.
When I arrived to Kaya's I was greeted very well by one of their beautiful receptions, Shamari was her name. She seemed to be waiting for my arrival. There was some back story about my reservations, arrival and room selection that I won't get into right now. Nevertheless everything worked out alright. Anyways, Shamari is about 5'7" brown skinned just what I liked, so I tried to talk her into spending sometime with me. She lead me on for a while but I could tell she was only trying to be nice. So that ended up going no where.
At this point let me mention that the P4P scene in PV is as previously stated on the boards non-existent. I saw 3 crack head looking girls looking for action (or trouble). So if you are into crack heads you can find slim pickens. But for the most part once in PV your choices will be between locals and gringa turistas. But don't fret cause with most of the turistas its not that hard to get one. But you might be in for a bit of shell shock when you have to actually conduct a decent conversation as opposed to the ways of the DR or other places in SJO. But, back to mystory!
The rooms I had at Kaya's Hotel was the King size suite. There was originally a mix up with the reservations between my travel agent and the hotel but JT (Kaya's owner) called me a couple nights before and worked it out with me over the phone, or so I thought.
JT is a transplant from the states who lives in PV with his wife.
The room was nice, private bathroom, small kitchen area fridge, etc. But, the rooms are rustic so do not expect American city style rooms. As a matter of fact there was no telephone in the room, no internet service in the hotel and when I first arrived I was told the TV (no remote control) didn't work. It wasn't until the next day out of boredom that I tested it for myself and eureka! I was relieved to find 3 working channels.
Anyways, my point about Kaya's is that it is rustic, basic, safe, with friendly staff and as close as you want to be to the beach and the town. There were no chica fees or hassel. It's worth a stay there!
Just don't book through a travel agent. Book directly with the hotel to get the discounts. Another reason I give my endorsement to Kaya's is the tour guide they put my intouch with, his name is Juppy.
I wanted to visit the indigenous peoples and do tourists stuff for a while so I asked Shamari to set it up for me. The next day I was introduced to one of the best tour guides in PV if not all of CR, Jupi. While I was with Juppy, I was scheduled for a 3-4 hour tour that ended up being a 3 day romp up and down the caribbean coast in search of all kinds of things; working ATMs, girls, land for sale, you name. Now I give this disclaimer before I go any further. I am a black male and can speak pretty good spanish (although in PV spanish is not really needed). So YMMV if you decided to follow my path.
Juppy is a rasta, local ghetto celebrity and on his 3rd german wife. If there is anything
you might want to get in PV ask someone at Kaya's to set you up on a tour with Jupi. Just be discrete and careful about your requests so you don't piss him off or get yourself in trouble.
I also want to give a special endorsement for all members traveling to the caribbean coast to take a trip to Bar Pen in Playa Negra, run by Tina.
The bar is a few miles before you get into PV and you can get a nice meal and a good drink there. To me it was well worth the trip.
When you go do me a favor and tell Tina (the lady with the grande culo behind the bar) that Dee sent you. And that I am craving to come back soon to see her.
So, this is my condensed version of my trip to PV:
1) take interbus
2) stay at Kaya's
3) get a tour from Juppy
4) visit Bar Pen and Tina in Playa Negra for me
5) expect a slow pace with a relaxed vibe in everything you do or are having done for you
And remember you are in paradise so just chill out and go with the flow.
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