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CR DRIVING (& HIKING): San Isidro del General to Mount Chirripo (via San Gerardo de Rivas)

During our February trip to CR, the “Oscar Brothers” and I covered at least half of the country by car. One of the most scenic spots during our two-week itinerary was the vicinity around Mount Chirripo in the Talamanca Mountain Range.

Access to Chirripo National Park is afforded by a steep 21-km mountain trail that begins in the village of San Gerardo de Rivas and concludes at the summit of Cerro Chirripo. There is a very dramatic change in elevation (7,500 feet) across this relatively short stretch. The altitude at the trailhead or “El Termometro” in San Gerardo is 4,987 feet…and at the Chirripo summit…12,529 feet. It goes without saying…the hike up Chirripo is not a leisurely one…and unless you are a decathalon winner…plan on 3 days for the hike up and back!

I was told by some of the locals that the trail is only navigable during the dry season. The Park only permits a limited number of hikers on the trail (35 per day)…and it is advisable to obtain your reservation at least 2-3 months in advance. The hiking permit costs 5,000 C and there is an additional 5,000 C if you wish to stay in the relative comfort of the base camp located about 4 km from the summit. If you don’t like to plan ahead…and do things on the spur of the moment…you can do what “Oscar Malo” did…camp out in front of the ranger station at 4:00 am. Every day, the rangers have a limited number of “unreserved” permits (about 5) that are issued on a first come – first served basis.

The hike up the trail is truly grueling. Plan on getting in shape well before you arrive at the trailhead! The relentless 45 % grade climb and high altitude will literally take the wind right out of your sails and make you punch drunk. It is not unusual for even the most experienced hiker to suffer from the effects of altitude sickness and dehydration. Even though Oscar made a valiant attempt to tame Chirripo, but the high altitude got the best of him. Due to his altitude sickness, he left the base camp on the morning of the second day without ever reaching the summit. Oscar vows to return to Chirripo to take care of “some unfinished business.” I sampled only the first 2 km of the trail…which was more than enough for me! I headed up the trail to check on Oscar, after he did not return to the trailhead at the appointed time. After walking 2 km, 3 trail horses literally boxed me in and would not let me advance further along the trail. The horses were groomed and shoed and perhaps, deliberately stationed along the trail to discourage the entrance of non-permitted visitors. Oscar finally appeared, tired and hurting, after walking 17 km down the mountain.

The trip from San Isidro to San Gerardo will take you about 45 minutes. Heading south on the Interamerican Highway, you will cross a bridge as you leave town. About 300 meters on the left, there is turn-off for the continuation of Hwy #243 (this is a steep incline) For the next 14 km, the highway is asphalt with the usual amount of potholes as it winds its way through half a dozen villages. When the asphalt ends, this is your signal to make a hard right onto a gravel and dirt road. This 9 km segment is narrow and steep…I would not consider taking it unless you are driving an SUV or pick-up truck. In many places, the road is too narrow for 2 vehicles to pass…so this means somebody will have to back down.

San Gerardo de Rivas is an idyllic little village situated around the Rio Chirripo Pacifico. I would guess the population to be around 100 (including occasional hikers and ecotourists.) A small church and soccer field can be found in the center of town along with a general store and 2 small bar/restaurants. There are several rustic B&B type hotels near the trailhead that offer very affordable accommodations. As you exit town towards the north, you will encounter an intersection. 500 meters straight ahead is the San Gerardo Hot Spring (excellent for soothing your tired body after the hike)…and to the right, 2 km away, is the trailhead.

Nightlife in San Gerardo centers around Bar/Restaurante Roca Dura or the “Hard Rock Café.” We dropped in on the “Hard Rock” the night before Oscar’s trek up Chirripo, and were pleasantly surprised to find it staffed by half a dozen lovely young ladies. The only other customers in the place were a Tico and a Canadian ecotourist. Although the girls seemed very friendly and eager to please, Oscar and I called it an early night with the pending 4:00 am wake up call and Chirripo hike in mind. Dinner for two, including cervezas and tragos, came to 5,500 C…certainly a lot cheaper than SJ!

Several days in Chirripo National Park may not be for everyone, but it certainly is a spot I want to see again. As always, YMMV!

Selected photos of San Gerardo available for viewing in the CRT VIP Gallery “Scenic Photos and CRT members w or w/o Sections”

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Blue Devil

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